2006年,22岁的双色球规则路易斯·拉莫斯(Luisel 拉莫斯)在乌拉圭蒙得维的亚(Montevideo)离开跑道后,死于与厌食症有关的心力衰竭。公众感到很愤怒,他们要求时尚主管重新评估他们的招聘方式。
尽管如此,我们今天发现已经过去了八年,跑道模型仍然没有 较重 要么 更健康. In fact, the average size and weight of models in the 时尚产业 is at an all-time low (even while the 美国时装设计师协会成立 2012年的16岁年龄限制)。根据 英国双色球规则经纪人协会,女性的最小身高应为5'8,最可接受的范围是5'9-5'11。这个女人的体重应该约为115磅,她的身高应为34-24-34,从胸围到腰围到臀部。在5分9秒时, 体重指数 妇女的不孕和生病的标准是17。18.5。世界卫生组织说得到的是16 严重危险。 15是他们经常死亡的地方。
As a culture, we know this is unhealthy. We know that model extremity is one of many cogs in the complex gears of slender body 图片 norms. We know none of it is right. Nonetheless we cannot seem to shake our attachment to extreme 瘦ness.
妇女的身体形象一直在挣扎,主要是由这些荒谬的社会规范所延续。你做了暑假Innanen’s 身体形象 程序?它可能会改变您的生活!一世’我之所以喜欢它,是因为它可以帮助女性摆脱那些身体形象的谎言和社会规范。看看这个 这里.
Taking a good, hard look at the 时尚产业 reveals some powerful answers to the question of why models are so 瘦. These answers so powerful that they collapse whatever validity we had previously ascribed to 瘦ness in the fashion world in the first place. They demonstrate that the 时尚产业 treats and depicts women as less-than human. Less-than-human is not valid. Less-than-human is not worth our attention and adoration. Less-than-human is something to reject and overcome, not something to aspire to.
These are two of the bizarre, harmful rules by which the 时尚产业 plays.
- 双色球规则儿适合穿衣服;衣服不适合双色球规则穿着。
时装设计师的主要目的是向零售商出售产品。这意味着衣服的设计是垂悬和悬挂的,但是无论其设计所需的身材大小如何,它对人眼都是最有吸引力的。更长,更流畅或更好 披上 一件衣服是,零售业高管的眼睛更有可能从他的头上冒出来,并且他会争先恐后下达数千个订单。沙漠双色球规则经纪公司(Desert Models Agency)的前双色球规则转任总裁Krystle Kelley说, 福克斯新闻专访 that “people that pick up magazines are consumers. They want to see people that relate to them, which will make the consumer more eager to buy products. But designers are showing their garments to the majority crowd who are mostly retailers. 的collections are also considered drafts, and those drafts are fitted to a mannequin that is size 0 要么 2 dress size. 的other concern of the designer is for the garments to flow as well as be mesmerizing on the catwalk and the way to accomplish that is for the dress, pants, gown etc. to be long. 的only way to fit a long garment is with a model who is 瘦 and tall.”
图片来源:stylite.com。
因此,服装是根据其自身吸引人的形状设计的,而不是针对其如何适合实际人类而设计的。 Models 经常 been called “衣架” 由于这个确切的原因。 它们首先被视为对象。它们对于测量非常有用。它们是骨头和骨头,衣服要悬挂而不是生活,呼吸,充满活力的人类。
This problem is best demonstrated by the role of the “fit model” in the 时尚产业. 的fit model maintains a precise, tiny shape that fits to exact measurements. This enables her to be the first mannequin in the production line, the tiny size—or the “skeleton” in the words of once 时尚澳大利亚 编辑柯尔斯蒂·克莱门茨–所有较大的尺寸都将以此为模型。克莱文评论 她的书摘录 的Vogue Factor 于2013年7月发表在《卫报》上 一位双色球规则将她的室友描述为“是个合适的双色球规则,所以她很多时候都在医院里滴水。”。业内高管经常将自己双色球规则儿的危险状况告诉克莱门特。有时,他们甚至在拍摄过程中采取策略性地安排双色球规则的四肢,因为双色球规则太饿了而且精疲力竭,无法动弹。
(Steffie Soede。图片来源: vogue.it)
在设计过程之后,跑道模型必须适合这些骨骼服装。 后 那, the clothing is made available to the press to use for shoots. This forces the industry’s 瘦ness norms down the throat of magazine editors and the popular presses (who nonetheless retain their own culpability in this process).
流行印刷机中的模型必须适合已经生产的尺寸:直接从女性身上得到的四号,二号或零号– 衣架 –在跑道上。克莱门特说,没有更大的样本可用,也没关系,因为行业知道瘦长的衣服会长卖,即使它永远不会像合身双色球规则那样从“正常”女人身上垂下来。或双色球规则儿。
So models are so 瘦 because they are 衣架 who are forced to squeeze themselves down to the size of pencil sketches. Models fit clothes; clothes don’t fit models.
2)模型消失,衣服可以发光。
Much as we might 瘦k of models as impossibly beautiful, they are not necessarily chosen for this fact. Yes, they must have a particular “ferocity” 要么 “verve.” They must have the stage presence a designer is looking for. But if they were too beautiful 要么 too buxom they would be distracting. Fashion executives fear that instead of focusing on the brilliant cut of a particular piece of clothing on a runway 要么 in a fashion magazine, people would be drawn into lustful, envious thoughts of flesh. And they cannot possibly have that! Emmy Award-winning stylist and author David Zyla affirms this point in an 采访福克斯新闻。 Zyla认为,时装秀中很多事情都危在旦夕,弯曲,健康,充满活力的女性将“超越”设计师的作品。 Zyla说:“结果,所选择的双色球规则通常苗条而雌雄同体……因此,观众不会因臀部弯曲或胸部丰满而分心。”
图片来源: complex.com
This is a particularly potent aspect of the 时尚产业 we need to 瘦k deeply about. 双色球规则们如此苗条,那么年轻,那么有角,而且常常与健康的体形相对立,因为行业主管故意使它们不可见。 他们没有被选择为具有性吸引力。他们并非因其惊人的女人味或美丽而被选中。它们不被选为充满活力或健康的信标。之所以选择它们,是因为它们有潜力成为衣架。 目的…不是的东西 看过。 If that’s not reason to buck the 时尚产业’s heavy-handed anorexia-mongering, I don’t know what is.
(Adriana Lima,2013年VS时装秀。图片来源 Zimbio.com)
Of course, many of the female bodies we idolize in popular culture such as Victoria’s Secret models are not at risk of death by anorexia nervosa, but nevertheless the 时尚产业 is problematic because its drastic aesthetic preferences perpetuate the myth of leanness as a necessary component of beauty far and wide. 的时尚产业 is partly why even the curvier Victoria’s Secret models are themselves still so tall and 瘦. 的时尚产业 is partly why mannequins are so tall and 瘦. 的时尚产业 is partly why women and girls flip through magazines and develop negative body 图片s issues and disordered eating behaviors. Extreme 瘦ness is not a standard of beauty for the ages. It’s not a norm founded in health and empowered womanhood. It’s not even a standard that treats women like human beings. It is arbitrary, and it is cruel. Recognizing this fact can help us move forward into the future 瘦king more realistically about what makes a woman beautiful,
我还没有所有关于美的答案。但我怀疑这与健康有关。我怀疑这与人格有关。我怀疑这与善良有关。我敢肯定,这与尊严和内在价值有关。 这些是我在书中讨论的概念 天生性感,亚马逊链接 这里. These are not values the 时尚产业 offers–他们是我们必须发展并为自己站起来的人。但是,我们可以以勇气,宽恕和爱心来做到这一点,并对在生产时髦服装时对世界各地妇女的不公正待遇充满热情。
阅读我的畅销书, 天生性感 对此有更多了解!如果您想反抗这种身体形象的疯狂,请不要 ’别忘了看21天的身体影像混音 这里.
注意–上面的某些链接可能包含会员链接。你不’付出更多,但我们得到了一些小小的帮助,以保持该组织的正常运转。它’很难在伦理与生存需求之间取得平衡。感谢您的耐心和理解!
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仍在等待Nikoley的明确谴责(至少您对他的网站的最新评论令人不安)。我还要感谢您对所有女性的道歉以及普遍的谢意’ve一路走下坡路。对于初学者 …
是啊…And if anybody’s still aspiring to that kind of body, I can tell you if you actually *are* that 瘦, people are about evenly split between 瘦king you look terrible but not saying anything (usually men) and openly expressing envy and jealously, with an edge of meanness (usually women). Because yes, I definitely lost all this weight on purpose to make you feel bad about yourself. My life-threatening illness was just a means to an end. /sarcasm
Thinspo is an actual ongoing 瘦g for many young girls who have no clue whatsoever about nutrition and the potential health- damage of being underwheight. This is a well- written article and although I have sort of heard it all before, the puzzle never quite came togheter until I read this. Sounds like the models are the victims of an inhuman money-machine,wich in turn afflicts everyone else. And, sadly, on top of it, I hear these victims say they consider themselfs soo lucky to be a part of this big “adventure”。他们是如此洗脑!我们都是。
While I agree with your sentiment, I 瘦k you’ve忽略了争论的关键部分。这些妇女选择以这种方式受到对待!了解他们的期望是进入有毒行业的选择。只要这些模型愿意遵循非人道的期望,这种做法就会继续下去。还有许多其他职业选择。出于您指出的原因,我绝不会鼓励或让我的女儿成为榜样。
This has totally changed how I 瘦k about body 图片.
旧的心态-因此,您会看到另一个女人,她的牛仔裤只是BAM牛仔裤。所有细节,紧缝…您所看到的就是她的牛仔裤看起来很棒。然后,您想知道为什么,然后您意识到,哦,她还很年轻。 /叹。我需要变得年轻。
新思维-但是没有。我不’t。因为我刚刚注意到她的牛仔裤看起来不错。我没有’除非事后想,否则甚至不注意她。她是一个衣架,给衣服做广告。现在我嫉妒某人’的身体(这本身很愚蠢),我现在正在考虑她是否看起来不错,因为她实际上看起来很好,或者我是否’我只是嫉妒合适的衣服
对我而言,古旧是关于看起来好裸。当然,每个人都有不同的标准,我们’真的,即使我们这样做,这里真的也不会互相审判。这篇文章对我来说,只是把很多根深蒂固的身体形象习惯变成了潮流。
的时尚产业 is exactly that .. an industry anchored on fashion and if the experts and designers feel 瘦 is the best way of getting their wares exposed and appreciated, who are we to say otherwise. At the end of the day it’s a business. Besides the issue of anorexia could be an entirely isolated 瘦g.
为了保持良好的身材,您必须养成健康的饮食习惯。我读过某个地方的内容,即使您每天都上体育馆,但继续吃垃圾食品–都是在浪费时间。我在这里找到了许多有关适当营养的有用建议,网址是Militarygradenutritionals.com/blog/military-for-women/。它们为女性提供了特别的提示,并提供了许多激励性的想法!
为零弯曲的人设计衣服不仅容易,而且为无弯曲的人缝制衣服也更容易快捷。我什至天天都擅长缝制衣服,部分原因是与自己合作并接受了自己的宽容自我。话虽这么说’超级烦人的消费者看到的衣服“works” on someone who’s stick 瘦 to only see that it is just a bit much on anyone with natural, feminine curves…甚至BMI为19以上。不用说,没有更多的时间可以缝制了,我’我已经接受了自己进行修改或为裁缝店穿现成的衣服只是我现实的一部分…当然,如果我看到像JLo这样的名人穿着的东西,’它有更大的机会’ll fit right!!!!!!
亲爱的史蒂芬妮–谢谢你的这篇文章,因为我过去经常节食,所以它引起了我的共鸣。–无论是仅可食可乐和沙拉的饮食,还是超严格的零碳水化合物古饮食+ IMF,以及塔巴时段…
哦无论如何,经过几年的锻炼,我的体型变得不那么女性化(因为臀部周围的健康脂肪减少了)。一切都是为了获得所谓的美丽女性身材。
I’m recovering from that now. An article of yours from last year, I 瘦k one on hypothalamic amenorrhea, helped start me down the right path. To quote you, “考虑吃一吨卡路里的热量” LOL. Best advice.
另外,这篇文章让我想到了一些:
艺术家不朽的技巧’的歌曲《自然之美》。
“这些杂志使您陷入困境,
因为当你饿死自己时,
你的身体不’燃烧脂肪燃烧肌肉
和那些谁不’即使女性控制着生意,
那’s为什么女人看起来像男人,而男人像母狗…”
It’自从我已经很久了’ve听了不朽的技巧。谢谢。这是我的“quotes” doc.
I’我对这篇文章非常反感。第二张图片带有标题“拉莫斯在2006年去世前的著名镜头”, when it’实际上是Magdalena Frackowiak的镜头。拍摄时如何出名’甚至不是你的双色球规则’重新写什么?您敢于写出这样一篇不为人知的文章,试图在她去世之前让一种模型的照片作为另一种厌食模型的照片通过。
这很有趣…因为这张照片是作为拉莫斯(Ramos)浮在女权主义者/双色球规则博客上的。每时每刻。我总是能看到它。一百万年来我从未想过’曾经是另一个女人。我很抱歉。
我喜欢这篇文章;虽然,我不同意固定“fashion industry”是人类不健康饮食习惯的罪魁祸首,数千年来,人类一直沉迷于女性的身体形象。如果您看中国古代,韩国甚至日本,“thin”精致而无助的感觉一直是女性的主食,一直延续到今天,人们希望女性以一种特定的方式来表现和采取行动,以吸引潜在的伴侣的注意。曲线多的文化是非洲,非裔美国人和拉丁裔文化。以欧洲为中心的美容标准是– in all honesty – where the “thinspo” revolution came from. Even now, you go to Africa, and curvier women are seen as better capable of bearing children, go to Latin based countries and look at their television shows and their models are curvier, their actresses are curvier. Honestly, and this is not a white-versus-minority 瘦g, but the impossible beauty standard of 瘦ness is more of an off-shoot of whiteness, Eurocentric beauty standards and white-washing in the “Fashion Industry”。此外,这是人类不断为男性和女性规定某些美容标准的结果–因为男人在时尚方面遇到的苦难与女人一样多。因此,您可以责怪所有时尚,但您必须了解历史背景,同时也要关注我们的消费者,以了解我们如何通过接受这种以欧洲为中心的美容标准和“推开那个喉咙” of the 时尚产业.
嗯,当然。
I 瘦k the desire to be 瘦 has increased each decade with the rise in obesity each decade. Even in the 1950 standards were different, and the last wave of “real supermodels” in the 90s were 更健康 looking., even though there were still clothes to display back then. I thank you for describing the process by runway clothes reach the public. I 瘦k you are entirely right that they become a standard because of the industry around fashion. But I don’t 瘦k these sizes would be accepted by the general public in magazines and movies if we were not culturally responding to an epidemic, which makes evolutionary sense. Those least affected by the epidemic might end up in better health over time? Also, I don’就像人们如今如何使用“弯曲”一词来表示胖胖一样。我知道您可能不是这样说的,但是如果某人获得大量的上身脂肪,并因胸部脂肪而自称弯曲,那么细长的人在哪里会弯曲呢?很多腺组织等…? I 瘦k the term is too vague. Most models are androgenous but some can be curvy, even if they don’t have much fat.
你是对的–太模糊了。我的意思是弯曲。而且,不是雌雄同体。但也不是不健康的大。
身体世界中非常复杂的语义。 --
您使用的第一张照片应该是拉莫斯死前的照片,实际上是Magdalena Frackowiak
谢谢!各地的互联网都说它的拉莫斯…我到处都在寻找她的更多照片..谢谢。